In a recent report created by Skin care conglomerate DECIEM and beauty trend tracker backed by Y Combinator SPATE, researchers have compiled a list of the most sought after skin care ingredients and concerns to shed light on growing concerns about safety. of ingredients and misconceptions about chemical ingredients. Coming up, we are deepening the discoveries and dermatologists are stepping in to share their thoughts.
Behind the data
SPATE has analyzed more than 20 billion search signals in the beauty and ingredients categories in the United States. From there, the trending ingredients and associated research data was organized to determine the concerns consumers associate with those ingredients.
Spotlight on ingredients
The first section of the report analyzes the top ingredients by safety issue, which has been organized by year-over-year growth by comparing the last 12 months (end of June 2021) to the previous 12 months. The top five ingredients that were searched for next to the term “safe” or “unsafe” are dmdm hydantoin (+ 23,900.0% growth in searches from one year to the next), magnesium stearate (+ 66.7% growth in research from one year to the next), boric acid (+ 38.1% growth in searches from one year to the next), retinol (+ 36.0% growth in searches year on year) and zinc oxide (+ 31.9% growth in research year-on-year).
In another section of the report, the researchers looked at the ingredients of greatest concern, which were determined by the ingredient’s search volume as well as the search ingredient’s growth and volume with the relevant safety concern. Included in the top five: zinc (+ 12.9% growth in searches from one year to the next), hyaluronic acid (+27.9 growth in research from one year to the next), silicone (+ 5.4% growth in searches from one year to the next), retinol (+ 38.3% growth in searches from one year to the next) and vitamin C (-4.2 & growth in research year on year).
“One particular skin care ingredient that is dear to the heart of any dermatologist, but which has fallen in favor in the public eye due to these misconceptions and trends on social media, are retinoids.” says Bloomfield Hills, MI dermatologist Linda C. Honet, MD, who explains that this negativity is largely unfounded. “It is by far the most effective, versatile and powerful ingredient in skin care for maintaining skin health and rejuvenating skin. I would confidently say that the majority of dermatologists, male or female, either use a retinoid in their own skin care regimen or wish to. Retinoids are so important and impactful! If I had to choose an anti-aging ingredient that everyone should include in their skin care regimen in addition to moisturizer and sunscreen, I would choose a retinoid… It’s also very “natural” because it ‘is a derivative of vitamin A.
New York dermatologist Doris Day, MD agrees with Dr Honet: “Retinol has long been a concern regarding its effects on the skin. There are a lot of myths about it like it lightens the skin or that if you have it on your skin you are more likely to get sunburnt. Both are wrong. They are known to help normalize skin cell renewal and improve collagen production, which makes the skin thicker and firmer, smoother, and less wrinkled. One of the concerns is irritation, and the new formulations have also gone a long way in making it a much more tolerable ingredient. It is one of the most studied and published ingredients in the medical literature.
According to Washington DC dermatologist Tina Alster, MD, people shouldn’t be worried about the above ingredients. “The only time retinol should not be used is on pregnant or breastfeeding women. Otherwise, I do not limit the use of products containing hyaluronic acid, silicone, zinc oxide or vitamin C. Dr. Day delves into the question of silicone and vitamin C: “With the vitamin C, concerns mainly relate to stability rather than effectiveness. New formulations such as tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate are now both fat soluble and more stable, making it a great option for this vital ingredient. When it comes to silicone, the point is that they play an important role in product development and play an important role in how a product looks and feels on the skin. They eventually decompose in the environment into silica (sand) and therefore have little or no negative impact on the environment.
Delray Beach, FL dermatologist Janet Allenby, MD thinks there is a bit of a lag in this research analysis because there are many reasons people might think an ingredient is harmless. “To really understand what someone is asking for, you need to know in what form the product is being sought and why,” she says. “For example, some of the ingredients are very harmless when used topically but seriously harmful when taken orally or by injection. It would take a lot of understanding of the different forms they cover, but if you’re new to the area, that might not really explain why someone would be concerned about its harmfulness.
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