Home Beauty recipe Rachel Roddy’s Favorite Way With Carrots – Recipe | Food

Rachel Roddy’s Favorite Way With Carrots – Recipe | Food

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AAA: a full-size dry cell battery, a backstage pass, I hope, the Australian Archaeological Association, a Japanese rock band, Morse code for the air striker, and a trio of food writers, Ada , Anna, Anna.

Ada is Ada Boni, the Roman gastronome, magazine editor and author of several books, notably the 1925 He Talismano della Felicità. Boni hoped that her The Talisman of Happiness, a collection of 882 recipes (which was later expanded), would both preserve culinary traditions and teach, even if she didn’t view the recipes as slavish things to follow; rather, like endless creative possibilities – which to me is the beauty of the book. The volume of regional recipes of Anna Gosetti della Salda, The Italian Regional Ricette, on the other hand, may seem more prescriptive, which is largely related to the encyclopedic nature of the book. Although it does pass when you realize that the succinct nature of a recipe can be liberating, like receiving just enough advice and being told to take the plunge.

If both books are renowned for their autonomy, I think they are even better in company, and especially in that of Anna del Conte, which translates and communicates the recipes and lessons of both (and many others). with delight and wisdom. And nowhere more than in the anthology of his work, Amaretto, Apple Artichoke Cake, which is divided by ingredient.

This week, carrots! I asked all three – Ada, Anna and Anna – what to do with carrots at Christmas, and the answer was unanimous: braise them in lots of butter with liquid (which I will come back to later on. ‘hour) until they glow. But first, a word on age. Mature is better. Detailed research carried out by Hans Platenius, a research instructor at the New York Department of Vegetable Crops in 1934, showed that the sweetness of carrots is primarily controlled by the amount of sucrose they contain, which increases with age. which means their sweetness. Through extensive and continuous research in my refrigerator, I have tested this theory over and over again and can confirm that the old bent and wrinkled carrot with a black tip is almost always the sweetest and oversized carrots improve with it. age. Also, by doing the first five months of storage in a cool place, carrots will actually increase their vitamin A content. Neglecting carrots, it seems, is a good thing.

In addition to the flavor, sweetness and vitamin A, as Jane Grigson recalls in her Vegetable book, there is another advantage of maturity: resilience, as in braised in broth or, for an even richer and more festive dish, in a glass of amber marsala.

Anna (del Conte) notes that this, Ada style, is one of the best ways to cook carrots. And I agree, it brings out the best in them, while still allowing them to be themselves. Like AAA, when on their own, carrots cooked this way are even better with others: cabbage and chestnuts, spring greens and bacon, or roasted potatoes and parsnips, a stuffed bird or pumpkin – whatever. sits in the middle of your table.

Ada Boni’s carrot – Ada Boni glazed carrots with marsala

Serves 6

750g carrots
40g butter
Salt and black pepper
1 teaspoon of sugar
1 heaped teaspoon of flour
200 ml of dry marsala
, or 300 ml of vegetable or light chicken broth
1 tablespoon of chopped parsley

Peel the carrots and cut off the tips and tails. There are two cutting possibilities: cut them into 3mm thick discs or sticks, in which case cut them into 5cm long pieces, then cut each piece into sticks.

In a skillet or sauté pan, melt the butter over medium heat and add the carrots, salt, pepper and sugar, and cook, stirring, for three minutes. Sprinkle with flour, stir, then pour in the marsala and 100ml water (or use 300ml broth instead), which should just cover the carrots.

Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to low, cover the pot and cook for 15-25 minutes, lifting the lid to stir occasionally, and adding a little more liquid if you think it needs it. At the end of cooking, the carrots should be very tender with a slightly thick sauce. Add the minced parsley and more black pepper and serve.