I I can’t tell you the last time I made a quiche. It’s not that I don’t like it – a good, eggy and creamy and light, with a flaky crust – is a thing of beauty. But when I’m in the mood for baked egg dishes, I’m more of a frittata cook, loving how adaptable and simple this dish can be.
But my pie-baking itch flares up every holiday season, and a quiche is really nothing more than a savory pie (or pie), so when I saw Jamie Oliver’s recipe for this that he simply called the vegetable quiche in his new book Together, I took a closer look. Oliver offers two options in this recipe – one for the butternut squash and one for the mushrooms – and rather than incorporating either of them in chunks into the filling, he has you mash the cooked vegetables with the eggs. , cream and cheese required before baking.
I admit: this is not a typical recipe for this column, because it takes too long to be achievable on a given weekday evening. But that’s only if you do it from start to finish. Instead, you can divide the work as you see fit: one option is to make the simple dough one evening, bake the filling another, and bake the quiche the third, refrigerating your work in between.
As for this pastry, Oliver’s recipe includes a technique that I had intended to try after seeing it in countless episodes of The Great British Pastry Fair. After placing the dough in the pie pan, instead of cutting off the excess before baking, you leave it in place, pressing it against the edge of the pan and letting it hang down, and blind baking it from this way (without the filling, and with pie weights to keep everything in place). Once it has cooled, you use a sharp paring knife to cut the dough flush with the edge of the pan.
What’s great about this method is that it helps prevent shrinkage – something that always seems to plague my pie crusts, even though I’m careful to cool the dough and not stretch it. Since this quiche uses a generous amount of topping for the final baking, any shrinkage will make the pie too shallow to contain everything. Believe me I have tried both ways and will never go back.
Because the quiche is denser, it has a super creamy texture approaching that of a savory cheesecake. It also takes a little longer to cool down – and may even taste better cold than hot, making it a great option not only for vacations or other great dinners or brunches, but also for leftover lunch. whether you bag it or not. I can imagine already saving the idea for warmer weather, when that would make an exceptional picnic item.
In case you were wondering where to go here – squash or mushroom – let me describe the differences, beyond the obvious color. The squash is a bit denser, considering the starch of the star vegetable, but with a lighter flavor. The mushroom ends up having a slightly lighter texture but a deeper flavor, almost like a fake liver pate. If you like, sautÃ© a few slices of mushrooms for garnish, just to signal your guests what’s inside – or let them taste and guess.
Creamy butternut squash or mushroom quiche
Active time: 1 hour | Total time: 3 hours
Get ahead: Wrap tightly and refrigerate puff pastry for up to 5 days or freeze for up to 3 months. Refrigerate the baked pie shell for up to 2 days. Refrigerate filling for up to 5 days. Refrigerate the assembled, cooked and cooled quiche for up to 3 days.
Storage Notes: Refrigerate leftovers for up to 3 days.
205 g all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
9 tablespoons (128 g) cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
Â½ tsp. fine salt, divided, plus more to taste
120 ml cold water, divided, more as needed
800 g of butternut squash or mixed mushrooms
1 tbsp plus 1 tsp extra virgin olive oil, divided, plus more for greasing
170 g yellow onion, thinly sliced
4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
6 large eggs
7 tablespoons heavy cream
113 g coarsely grated cheddar cheese
60g crumbled goat cheese
2 sprigs of fresh thyme
Lightly flour your work surface.
In a food processor, combine the flour, butter and Â¼ teaspoon of salt and mix until the mixture resembles coarse breadcrumbs. Add 60ml of cold water and pulse for a few more seconds until dough begins to form, adding more water, 1 tbsp at a time, if necessary. Transfer the dough to the work surface and push and tap (without kneading) in a circle. Wrap it in plastic wrap or beeswax and refrigerate for 30 minutes.
Prepare the vegetable of your choice: Peel, carefully cut in half and seed the squash, then cut it into 2 cm pieces. Or clean, cut and slice the mushrooms (removing and composting the stems if using shiitake mushrooms).
In a large skillet over medium heat, heat 1 tablespoon of oil until it sparkles. Add the onion, garlic and the remaining Â¼ teaspoon of salt and cook, stirring frequently, until the vegetables begin to soften, about 3 minutes. If using squash, add it with the remaining 60ml water, reduce the heat to medium, cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the squash is very soft, 20 minutes . Uncover, increase heat to medium-high and cook, stirring frequently, until additional water has evaporated, 2 to 3 minutes. If using mushrooms, cook uncovered over medium-high heat, using tongs to stir frequently, until they wilt, then reduce heat to medium and cook, stirring and scraping the bottom. from time to time, until tender and beginning to brown, 20 minutes. Taste and season with more salt if needed. Turn off the heat and let cool.
Place a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 220 Â° C. Lightly oil a 25 cm quiche mold with removable bottom.
Roll out the dough onto the flour dusted surface until it is about 35cm in diameter and just under 0.5cm thick. Gently wrap it around the rolling pin, then unroll it on the oiled pan and slide it to the sides, curling the excess dough firmly around the edges. Prick the bottom all over with a fork, cover with a sheet of parchment paper and fill with coins, beans or other pie weights. Transfer to a large rimmed baking sheet and bake for 15 minutes, or until the dough is set, then remove the foil and weights and continue baking for about 10 minutes, or until cooked through. ‘they are lightly browned and firm. Let cool, then use a sharp paring knife to cut off excess dough.
Transfer the squash or mushroom mixture to a blender. Add the eggs, cream and cheddar and reduce to a smooth puree.
Pour or scrape the filling (the mushroom will be thicker than the squash) into the baked and cooled pie shell, being careful not to overfill (you may have some squash filling left over; pour into one or two ramekins and cook next to the quiche). Crumble over the goat cheese. Rub the thyme sprigs with the remaining 1 teaspoon of oil, then scoop up the tips and leaves on the quiche.
Bake for about 40 minutes, or until the quiche is set in the center (it should be firm to the touch with little or no wobbling). Transfer to a cooling rack and let cool in the pie pan for at least 30 minutes, then unmould and serve hot, or let cool completely, refrigerate and serve cold (if you want to prevent the quiche from cracking, you can leave it in cool the oven, turning off the oven and opening the door slightly).
Nutritional information per serving (1 slice)
Use of squash: calories: 311; total fat: 20g; saturated fat: 11g; cholesterol: 141 mg; sodium: 225 mg; carbohydrates: 23g; dietary fiber: 2g; sugar: 2g; protein: 9g.
Use of mushrooms: calories: 296; total fat: 21g; saturated fat: 11g; cholesterol: 141 mg; sodium: 226 mg; carbohydrates: 18g; dietary fiber: 1g; sugar: 2g; protein: 11g.
This analysis is an estimate based on the available ingredients and this preparation. It should not replace the advice of a dietitian or nutritionist.
Adapted from “Ensemble” by Jamie Oliver (Flatiron Books, 2021).
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